Harris in Glorious Colour.

Just back from a short break in Harris.  10 days of the best Autumn weather ever. And, of course, time for a few sketches.

Last time we went to Harris we never saw the top of Clisham: this time we climbed it.  We did it the day after we arrived just in case the weather didn't hold.  It was quite a good day - good enough for a sketch on the top - and what a view we got, down over the ridges of the North Harris Hills.  Even managed to make out St Kilda on the horizon.

Day 2 was a bit windy and so we explored a few beaches.  There was Luskentyre, of course.

And the stormy seas on Traigh Iar

And the beach at Horgabost (Niosabost) - a quick sketch as the sand was blowing into my eyes.

Day 3 - a bit more energetic.  We headed to Huisinis, planning to walk over to Loch Cravadale.  It was very windy, and the wind was funneling down the valley, making sketching difficult.  Nevertheless, I sheltered behind a rock and managed to do this.  Wanted to capture the stormy sea!

And I loved the view of the three lochs

And I managed a very quick sketch of Scarp and the other wee island.

Day 4 we had a bit of a lazy day around the cottage.
We were in a lovely cottage at Seilebost  http://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/accommodation/seol-mara-seilebost-p553931  

 

It was lovely to walk out on the beach

And those pale evening colours

Day 5 - off to Rodel and the walk to Borrisdale.  It was such a warm day and the colour of the grass was such an intense green.  Lunch overlooking the bays with Skye and the mainland on the horizon.

We walked out on the Dun. Looking back, I loved the abstract shapes (very quick sketch!)

Day 6 - a trip to Scalpay and the lighthouse at Eilean Ghlas.  The Shiants were clear and I wanted to capture their shape.

Lunch in that great seafood place in Scalpay https://www.facebook.com/NorthHarbourBistro/ (well recommended), and a couple of sketches on the way back to the cottage.

Day 7 -a quieter day.  But still time for sketching - this one is of Ben Luskentyre from the cottage.

Day 8 - it rained a little! But it was good enough for a walk up the Coffin Road.  Trying so hard to work out how to capture the grain of the landscape, the look of the rocks and the grass.

And coming back - more rocks and grass, but a view over one of the lochans to Luskentyre.

Day 9 - over to the Golden Road, and our favourite place - walking out from Manais.  I love the old fishing pools and this is a great example. And that's the mainland on the horizon.

Found an island and a half to sketch at lunchtime (Eilean Mhanais)

And after the walk we headed south again and stopped at this point in the bay of seals.

And then another quick sketch of a lochan on the road back over to Leverburgh, trying to get the colour of the moorland.

Day 10 - weather still good - off to climb the hill at Northton - Ceapabhal.  A steep little climb on a hot day.  Great view from the top over to to North Uist and beyond...looking into the sun. Could also see St Kilda and Hirta clearly from the top.

Then a quick sketch back at the bottom of the hill looking over Northton beach.  Great lazybeds at the bottom of the hill.

And finally a last (very quick) sketch of Seilebost beach, looking toward Luskentyre.  Still with the amazingly bright colours.

We were so lucky.  I went to Harris hoping for some moody skies and stormy atmosphere, but I got some beautiful weather with lovely colours.  Much more challenging for me to take forward!
And a bit of decision-making - which sketches have the makings of a good picture?
Watch this space....

A Week Exploring Harris

Just spent a week on Harris. It was really a holiday, but I got some sketching opportunities. This blog is a record of the week.
Day 1 was our best walk of the week. We were staying at Luskentyre and we climbed the hill directly behind the cottage - Beinn Dhubh. It's the highest hill on South Harris and a great viewpoint. Visibility was particularly good - we could see so many of the hills on the mainland stretching from north of An Teallach (couldn't quite decide which hills these were!) down to the Five Sisters at Kintail, and the Cuillins and maybe even Ben More on Mull. We also could see St Kilda...amazing!
I did a quick pastel sketch on the top, trying to capture the light on the water and the feeling of far-awayness.

And on the way down I couldn't resist doing a sketch looking down over the beach at Luskentyre, with the black mound of Chapeval on the right.

Day 2 was spent driving round South Harris, starting with Northton and a walk out to the 'temple' on Chapeval. We could see right down the chain of the Outer Hebrides. I tried a pastel sketch first.

And then a watercolour looking in a slightly different direction from a higher viewpoint. It should have been Peploe-esque....a rather poor effort...

Then it was down to Rodel. A lovely old pier and unusual harbour, but I did find it a bit dark.

The Church at Rodel is lovely, with terrific old carvings, but I had no time to sketch there. We drove on around the east side and resolved to return.
Day 3 was a bit wet, and so we abandoned plans to climb Clisham but still headed for North Harris. I had already done this sketch of the North Harris hills - not really able to fit them all into a pic.

We reached the end of the peninsula at Huishuish - more lovely beaches. We decided to walk out to the end of the point, overlooking the island of Scarp. I kept hoping the cloud would lift, but through the gloom a distan beach shone out in technicolour. I felt I had to try and capture the scene (looking towards Lewis - Scarp is on the left).

There were spectacular cliffs and a raging sea which I attempted to skech, but again was a bit constrained by the size of the sketchbook.

The road to Huisnuish was amazing: we drove through the grounds of a castle and also thought we had seen a couple of eagles just at the side of the road, and we later walked up to the bird hide - a good walk, but no more eagles.
Day 4 dawned with uncertain weather. We headed for Grosebay and the Harris Tweed shop, and then drove south along the bays and inlets. We had thought Mannish looked promising for a bit of an explore, and I wanted to try and get a fairly detailed sketch of the bays. We walked out beyond the village and I thought this place looked good with the peat terraces leading down the hill in the foreground.

Interesting walk with old fish pools, causeways and remains of old graves...plus a dead sheep etc. Back in Mannish there was lots of interest. An old corrugated iron shed

An old boat (not unlike the Dunbar Boat)

Another old shed (possibly a blackhouse in an earlier life?)

Difficult to drag myself away, really.
Day 5 we had a trip to Lewis - Great Bernera on a visit, and we also took in the iron age house at Bostah (absolutely amazing!) and then onto Callanish (a bit disappointing, but still worthwhile). We returned via Stornoway. Too much driving, and driving rain. It would be good to visit Lewis again.
Day 6 I decided to focus on Luskentyre. I had done a couple of evening sketches sitting on the beach. This one looking east in failing light.

And this looking west - no sunset in sight.

And from the window of the cottage I had done this quick watercolour in the early evening

I wanted to get a proper feel of this amazing beach.

And the shoreline

And looking into the sun, with the sparkly sea and shoreline patterns

And watching the clouds build up

And finally the grass above the shore

Not long enough, really but I now have loads of sketches and photos. I'm giving myself 4 weeks to work on these and produce a couple of paintings....and the good thing is I'll be able to keep the dream going (I hope).